A serger (or overlock) machine sews, overcasts, and trims a seam all in one step. Serged seams are acceptable in all 4-H projects However a 4-H member should not be penalized for using conventional sewing techniques.

There may be cases when a serger should NOT be used:

• Young 4-H'ers who have not developed enough dexterity to guide fabric safely through such a quick process.
• 4-H members who are tired or emotionally unstable.

There are places where a serged seam or treatment is inappropriate and it is helpful to consult a sewing book that compares both methods for a specific application.

4-H members, who are growing and who need to adjust seamlines for fit, may want to opt for more conventional methods for once a serged seam is in place, it is very hard to rip out not only the seam, but the overcasting. Also, once the seam is trimmed, making any adjustments is difficult if not impossible. Adjusting the tension and rethreading the machine may also be trying for the young person. Also be sure to use the best quality thread you can afford to prevent thread breaks and rethreading.

Ideally, a 4-H member should have practice with all types of seam finishes sometime in their 4-H experience. That way they have some basis on which to make decisions about appropriate seam finishes on future projects.

Sergers can be used for construction of 4-H projects from 4th to 10th years. Quality standards are the same, whether a garment is serged, sewn by hand, sewn on a straight stitch, or a zigzag sewing machine.

Thread Color

Since sergers use more thread than a conventional sewing machine, it is more economical to buy thread on large spools or cones than on small spools. Large spools or cones are available in a limited assortment of colors, so matching thread to fabric for every garment is sometimes a problem.

In some cases garments will be more attractive if the thread matches, so if matching thread is not available on the large cones, it would be best to buy matching thread on the small spools. Where the stitching does not show, thread that blends with the fabric will be acceptable. For decorative effects contrasting thread is acceptable. Here are some guidelines to follow.

Thread Should Match Fabric:

• On an unlined jacket where seams may show.
• On edge finish that shows, such as the bottom of a top, skirt, or dress.
• On special garments.

Thread Could Blend or Harmonize with Fabric

• On garments where the stitching does not show. Suggestions are to use white thread on white, pastel, or light-colored garments. Use gray, black, or dark-colored thread on medium to dark colored garments. If matching thread is needed and is not available on large spools, buy one small spool of matching thread for use on the needle. Thread that blends or harmonizes can be used on the two loopers.

Thread Could Contract with Fabric

• For decorative effects such as outside seams and tucks.

Thread Tension When Finishing Edges

When The Thread Tension if Balanced

• Stitches are even on both sides of the fabric.
• There's no puckering, binding, or ruffling.
• There are no loose loops.
• Upper and lower threads lock around each other just at the edge of the fabric.

Thread Tension for Seams

• Seams stay together when you open the fabric and lightly tug on it. If the stitches pucker, the tension is too tight; if the stitches have a ladder effect, the tension is too loose.

Stitch Length

Stitch length depends on the part of the garment being sewn and the weight of each fabric sewn. Adjust the stitch to each different fabric. Numbers on the stitch regulator are in millimeters.

• For light to medium weight fabric usually an average stitch length, 3mm per inch, is used.
• For delicate fabric or a fabric that frays easily, usually a shorter stitch length such as 2mm per inch is used.
• For a satin-type stitch, a one millimeter stitch length is used. Stitches are very close together and can form a bead on the edges of the fabric.

Seams

• Seams on garments which do not have a lot of stress and strain can be stitched with a three-thread serger. Examples are: the side seams on a full skirt, blouse, or jacket.
• Seams on garments that do have stress and strain can be stitched with a three-thread serger, but the seam should be reinforced with a row of stitching with a conventional machine just inside the serger seam. Examples are: the crotch area in slacks or the underarm area of a sleeve.
• Seams on garments that have a lot of stress and strain can also be stitched with a four-thread serger. Since four-thread sergers have two needles, they have a safety stitch built in. This eliminates the need for stitching a reinforcement seam with a conventional machine.

Securing Seams

If seams are not crossed by other stitching, the chain should be secured. Here are some suggested methods:

• After stitching, stretch the chain out to flatten it. Thread the chain through the eye of a needle, then slip the needle under 1/2-1 inch of the stitching. Trim excess thread.
• Secure the ending threads while stitching. At the beginning, start with a two-inch chain. Stitch for two stitches, stop and pull the 2-inch chain around and lay it next to the seamline. Stitch over the chain. At the ending, stitch off the fabric for a few stitches, raise the presser foot, turn the fabric over, place the corner near the needle and lower the presser foot. Being careful not to cut the stitching, stitch over it for about one inch. Stitch off the fabric.
• After stitching, stretch the chain out to flatten it. Then make a knot in the chain. Slip the knot as close to the fabric as possible. Clip thread ends about 1/2 inch from knot.

Interfacing

• Use interfacing where support and stability are needed. Using interfacing will depend on the intended design of the garment and on the effect it has on the appearance of the garment.

SOURCE: Adapted from North Dakota Extension Service

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Updated 8/12/05